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Almost forgot -- the link to the full trip album is here!

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Day 7 - Wednesday - Amsterdam-Seattle

With a flight at 12:40 p.m., we didn't do much on Wednesday morning besides breakfast, checking out, and hailing a cab. Since the trip from Seattle to Amsterdam was one of the most uneventful experiences ever (other than the fun Tesla ride), we weren't expecting anything out of the ordinary on the way back.

Boy were we wrong.

The recent terrorist attacks on Brussels and Paris didn't seem to have made much of an impact on Amsterdam's day-to-day life -- we didn't notice an in-ordinary police presence, people were still dining, socializing, and mingling in popular squares and restaurants, and all attractions were open normal hours. That changed a bit on the way back to the airport.

First, there was a military checkpoint about a mile from the departure gates, which caused a bit of a slow-down as all vehicles were flagged through individually. Our cab driver wryly remarked, "Don't worry, we're not Arab, so we won't get stopped."

Then, there were MULTIPLE checkpoints within the airport, including one special "gate" that we needed to complete an extra passport check after going through the main security line but before receiving our actual gate number. We figured we passed through around eight security checks in all -- and that was just for a direct flight to the US.

Moments like this make me realize how fortunate we are to have traveled safely. Initial plans for this trip had us flying out of Brussels, the same airport that had been recently attacked.

It also makes me determined to, in the words of Rick Steves, "Keep on travelin'." I'm not saying to go places that are truly 100% dangerous -- so a trip to Syria is out! -- but as long as traveling is MOSTLY safe and comparable to staying home, I think it's a risk worth taking. The benefits of travel, including European travel, far outweigh the risks.

In all, this trip was extra special to us. It was our first vacation after becoming parents, and it allowed us to reconnect and recharge. We missed Declan terribly, but that was good too since it helped us appreciate the little monkey even more than before (which we didn't think was possible.) It was also special because we know it might be a while before our next big cross-ocean trip --- and who knows, little Declan might even join the travel team for that one. :-)

Thanks for reading!

Day 6 - Tuesday - Amsterdam

Tuesday was our last full day in Amsterdam, so we again took advantage of the ability to sleep 1) without a baby monitor and 2) without any alarm clock whatsoever. 

 

At least we made the hotel breakfast this time (barely). 

 

Since we decided to forego a day-trip to Belgium (too much effort and time it was determined), we found ourseleves with a rare day without any plans. I handed the reigns to Brendan, and he thought it'd be a kick to check out east Amsterdam, which has a lookout tower across the inlet from the city. 

 

Well, that "kick" turned into more of a "swing." More on that later. 

 

To reach east Amsterdam, we needed to catch a ferry from the train station. We set out on foot, determined to find a few new canals on the way. The walk to the train station was long but pleasant -- we bumped into a large sidewalk market and found a few quiet canals. It's always interesting to venture away from city centers and see how the "real" locals live, where they shop, etc. 

 

We found the train station easily (it's huge!) and followed the well-marked signage to the foot ferries. We took the world's shortest ferry ride which was less than 10 minutes across, and the route ran constantly with two ferries going back and forth. The lookout tower was practically adjacent to the ferry drop-off across the water, and when we (Brendan) discovered a swing had opened on top of the tower just two weeks ago -- and was billed as "Europe's Highest Swing" and a mere 5E more than the general lookout ticket-- we (he) decided it'd be a crime NOT to do it. 

 

We rode the tacky-but-fun elevator to the top (complete with a laser light show on the ceiling) and joined a short line to the swing. We were lucky to have visited before lunch, when we left the line looked at least an hour long. There were two swings at the top of the open-air observation deck and each could seat two people. As we buckled up for our turn, the tour operator took a quick photo and said slyly, "Smile while you can!" 

 

Funny guy. 

 

The swing was half-terrifying, a great view, and all around a one-of-a-kind experience. How many people can say they were on Europe's highest swing during its opening month? 

 

Well, we can. That alone was probably worth the extra 5E. 

 

After finishing the swing and taking a few photos from the observation deck -- being away from the city center, the view wasn't AS interesting as Westerkirk, but we were much higher and it was neat to see the skyline, a mix of medieval and modern architecture -- we caught the ferry heading west to the city.

 

We began the long walk back to the hotel, stopping for a lovely lunch at a cafe built into a pier (De Jaren), with a view of one of the few drawbridges in the city. It was great people-watching, boat-watching (one was moored literally two feet from our table), and felt like the perfect "last meal" in Amsterdam. We ventured back to the hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon packing, grabbing a quick burger dinner, and taking one last evening walk before calling it a night. 

 

One last blog entry coming....

 

Last day -- we miss Declan like crazy at this point but still want to suck every ounce of fun left in Amsterdam!

You never know what you'll find on a long walk... Brendan was in love with this motorcycle.

Lookout tower with the swing at the top

Last nice meal... had to get Bitterballen and beer, of course!

Lunch with a view

One of our last photos from that evening's walk. I'll miss our late evening walks the most -- always one of my favorite things to do with Brendan while traveling.

 

Day 5 - Monday - Amsterdam

On Monday, I slept in so late that I almost missed the hotel breakfast. (Brendan was sweet and brought me back a few things from the lounge.)

 

Amsterdam is a city with many sides -- you have the trendy restaurants and world-class museums, at least two major universities, beautiful canals and bridges -- and on the other, you have this seedy underbelly that has made the city infamous -- and at the top of that list is the Red Light District.

 

Who better to guide us through the seedy underbelly than the guy who's seen everything? Yup, this was another job for...

...Rick Steves! 

 

(Yes, he even has a podcast walking tour through the Red Light District.) 

 

We returned to Dam Square to begin the tour, plugged into our phones and began walking toward the oldest section of the city. We decided to visit this neighborhood in early afternoon, since we weren't looking to *actually* experience the district when all the bells and whistles (i.e., prostitutes and drugs) come out at night. 

 

I'll spare you most of the details, but a quick overview is that the area is fascinating and sad all at the same time. We saw a few women in windows in varying shapes, sizes, and ages. We learned that the district actually prides itself on being safe -- there are security guards and cameras everywhere -- and we never felt threatened (although we did take care to watch our wallets a bit more closely). Most of the "work" is done at night in the narrow alleys between the canals -- these alleys are so narrow, you could almost spread your arms and put a hand on each side. Many of the windows are empty during the day, but you can only assume most are full at night. 

 

With such a sleazy experience, you'd be surprised to learn that we ended up visiting in this neighborhood one of the most interesting... churches. 

 

Our Lord in the Attic is a "secret" 17th century Catholic Church, where Catholics were forced to worship outside the public eye. And it's nestled, where else, but where one can expect the demand for reconciliation was high -- the Red Light District. 

 

We entered the museum and were greeted by a very modern foyer and information lobby where we watched a short video that provided more context. Then, we began walking through the canal home/church on the self-guided/audio tour. 

 

We couldn't believe everything we were seeing fit in the nondescript canal home we had entered. Many of the finishing were authentic -- so much so, that guests were required to wear cloth shoe coverings to protect the floors. Even the tiles were authentic 1600s, complete with hand-drawn designs original to the house at that time period. 

 

After lunch in the museum's cafe (which came with a great view), and Brendan's introduction to the concept of a "flat white" latte (popular in Europe, recently introduced at a Starbucks near you), we left the church and began wandering the city for the rest of the afternoon. 

 

Sidewalk art in the Red Light

Our Lord in the Attic, first floor of the canal house

Second floor, living area for the family who lived in the home

Check out my fun red shoe covers!

Authentic 17th century bed, they would sleep sitting up! The bed is quite short.

You don't have a multiple-story church in your attic?

From living room to... full on church!

Pretty view from our walk that evening.

 

Day 4 - Sunday - Amsterdam

Our first stop on Sunday was one that I've thought about since I read a certain book in fifth grade.

Like many other young girls, I read Diary of Anne Frank when I was close to the author's age -- and I still remember being so amazed at how brave she must have been to endure such a frightening experience, and being stunned by the tragedy of her untimely death.

The house where the Frank family hid is nestled in the now-charming Jordaan neighborhood I mentioned earlier. It adds another layer of sadness that the family faced extreme adversity in such a beautiful city, their own house adjacent to a pretty canal.

The Anne Frank House is one of the busiest museums in the city -- so much so, that visitors must pre-buy tickets months in advance in order to avoid the afternoon lines (the only time the museum is open to non-pre-tickets), which can stretch for blocks and take hours. Tickets to this home were one of the first things we purchased when planning the trip.

We arrived at the house (a handsome canal home -- the front of it was Otto Frank's business, the back was the annex where the family hid) at 10:15 a.m., and started the tour with a short and informative video of the Frank family's experience. Then, the 50 or so other tourists in our group formed a mostly single-filed line and began the walk through the narrow home.

We were told that Otto Frank (Anne's father, the group's only survivor) insisted that the house remain mostly empty when plans were made to convert it to a museum. It was important to him that visitors were aware of the emptiness that remained after his family and the other Jewish hiders perished in the Holocaust. We were shown a large model of the home at the beginning of the tour that showed to-scale how the rooms were filled with furniture  -- but for the tour, the rooms remained mostly empty, save for a few artifacts placed on the walls and a few placards. A paper guide served as our "tour guide" and provided more context as we followed the line of visitors through the rooms.

From seeing the actual bookcase that hid the entryway to the hidden annex and photos of the movie stars Anne pinned to her walls, to seeing pages of the diary in Anne's handwriting and the sink where the families prepared meals, the tour was very moving. Especially poignant was seeing the attic window that let in the only source of natural light, which Anne wrote of looking through with her fellow hider and friend, Peter.  All other windows were darkened as they were during the family's hiding, and I was struck by how small, lonely and dark the space felt, even with the few hanging light bulbs lit

After the tour ended, we recharged in the light-filled and modern cafe that was part of the museum.

Experiences like the Anne Frank house are fulfilling in part because they help you appreciate life as you have it -- and part of enjoying life is enjoying art, which brings us to...

Next was the Rijksmuseum, one of the world's leading art museums and THE leading museum for Dutch great master art. We bee-lined to the Night Watch, Rembrandt's masterpiece. Words really don't do it justice, so I won't try here. But it was amazing, trust me.

The museum was huge but very well laid-out, and we generally weren't bothered by the monumental amount of other tourists visiting it. Even the most popular pieces (including Rembrandt's self-portrait and Vermeer's The Milkmaid) were displayed in a way where you didn't have to jockey for a good view. In all - including a short break for lunch where we needed to dodge the pigeons who frequented the outdoor picnic tables - we spent more than three hours in the museum.

Lighter note:While re-entering the Rijksmuseum after lunch, a young woman in front of us obviously had forgotten her ticket and tells ticket-taker, "So sorry, just left to use the restroom." Ticket-taker lets her pass and says, "That's fine. How did you enjoy our white porcelain collection?"

As we were leaving the museum, a small band was performing near the main entrance. It was a feast for our ears after the feast for our eyes!

Dinner that night was extra special because we splurged on a de facto anniversary dinner at trendy restaurant Envy -- we dressed up and enjoyed AMAZING plates including an out-of-this-world pork belly. 

Outside of the Anne Frank house -- no photos were allowed inside, but it was one of the most memorable experiences of the trip.

Live music outside the Rijks!

This piece is called "Two mothers" (the dog below has a puppy) It made me miss Declan!

Day 3 - Saturday - Amsterdam

Whenever we travel, we pack a healthy fear of queues. We’re both somewhat impatient people and we want to make the most of every moment when we’re somewhere new. 

Standing in lines? No one’s got time for that!

So on Saturday, I had already booked tickets well ahead of time for the popular Van Gogh museum, a HUGE museum devoted to one of the Netherland’s favorite sons.

After starting early at the hotel and dropping some postcards off at a mailbox – we needed to ask a local for which letter slot to use – we joined the quick-moving line of pre-ticket holders at the museum.

The museum was a Van Gogh-lover’s dream. 

Unfortunately, Brendan’s not a big fan of the artist except for his Starry Night, which ironically had traveled to New York during the time of our visit. I enjoyed the audio tour and the special “Insanity” exhibit, where we learned more of the story behind Van Gogh’s madness.  

Brendan wryly remarked, “The best part was the crazy part.”

Well, we also enjoyed “The Potato Eaters” but this was a lotta Van Gogh for anyone.

After checking that “must do” off our list, we headed to the nearby MOCO (modern art) museum, where we were unexpectedly about to experience one of the best art exhibits we’ve ever seen – and that’s saying something!

MOCO was hosting a special exhibit of Banksy, an anonymous England-based graffiti artist, and it was AMAZING. The first (and maybe only?) time Banksy art has been shown in a museum setting, the complementary audio tour told the story of each piece. Each piece had something to say - many were political, humorous, and thought-provoking. Just awesome. MOCO was also hosting a traveling Andy Warhol exhibit, and showed several Warhol pieces juxtaposed with Banksy pieces of a similar style. When you featured this art within the intimate house-like feel of the MOCO museum, it was just an amazing experience.

After MOCO, we saw the famous “I Am-sterdam” sign and tried to get a good photo without climbing it. Hey, we’re not as young as we once were!

All that art made us hungry, so we found a good canal-side café and settled in for lunch and a couple beers. The server sold us on the seasonal tap where the proceeds would benefit childhood cancer research – but those beers weren’t very tasty, so we switched to a different kind for our second round. (Sorry, cancer.)

After lunch, Brendan was in the mood for more exploring so we headed out to wander. After we (somewhat non-coincidentally, haha) ended up near the Begijnhof, I was able to convince him to take a quick side trip to view this inner courtyard – one of the oldest in Amsterdam. It was pretty cool to go one moment from the hustle and bustle to being within a quiet-ish square that included two medieval churches. I ducked into one of the churches to learn more while Brendan tolerated the detour. :-) At least he liked seeing one of the only two wooden canal homes in Amsterdam, which was built before fire regulations put a stop to that building practice.

After exploring a new shopping area south of the hotel, we started to feel like we were getting a good navigational sense (or at least Brendan was) of the tricky canals and windy roads.

We came back to the hotel to rest and ordered an easy pizza dinner, enjoying the canal view from our room.

Banksy begins

Warhol and Banksy side-by-side

Outside MOCO

Lunch with a view!

Inside the Van Gogh museum

Begijnhof

Church in Begijnhof courtyard

Begijnhof

One of the few wooden homes in Amsterdam